CAMELLIAS & THEIR PURPOSES

• If a camellia is to go in a specific spot, evaluate it to determine if a camellia can grow there successfully
• If a camellia is purchased, determine best location for successful growth

Wind

• Avoid location where drying winter winds will damage foliage 
• (Recommend south; west and north - that’s where our fronts come from)
• Drainage
• Well drained – in low areas, plant high or buy more water tolerant varieties (and still plant high). Camellias don’t like wet feet.

Sun

• Prefers filtered sun/dislikes early AM/late PM Sun
• Darker leaves tolerate sun better

Sun Tolerant Camellias

Profusion

• Most bloom early 

Shape

• Fast and open
• Compact and upright
• Bushy and spreading

Can Espalier 

When to Plant Your Camellia 

• Most people buy flowering plants as a matter of impulse. See Bloom – Buy Plant
• Unless you're in a camellia nursery, most have sasanquas in the Fall (when they bloom) and japonicas after Christmas - Blooms Sell
• Ideally, camellias are planted in Fall/Winter (Oct to Jan/Feb) often before they bloom. Roots grow in Fall/Winter so you want them to acclimate during this dormant period (all energy to root growth).

Choosing Your Camellia

• Remember purpose
• Sasanquas make best hedges, but some are low and bushy. Do your research.
• Japonicas can be hedges, but are great general purpose winter color or specimens
• Don’t look at pictures and search for that variety – c. 20,000 varieties w/ 1500 or so in commercial propagation

Decide

1. Growth habit

2. Color

3. Size of leaf/bloom

4. Species

5. Special Characteristics (cold hardiness, fragrance, seed production, bloom period/time)

Characteristics to Consider 

• Bushy or upright – a few are “willow-like”
• White, pink, red, combinations thereof, and yellow
• Miniature, small, medium, large, and very large blooms
• Leaves can also be small to quite large (usually consistent with bloom size)
• Species 
• There are 80-250 species depending on the scientist doing the counting
• Common Species– sasanquas and japonicas
• Special Characteristics may be fulfilled within a species or a different species or hybrid (mix of species)
• Cold Hardiness – oleifera and its hybrids – also good seed setters for oil
• Fragrance - lutchuensis and its hybrids
• Profusion – saluenensis and hybrids J. C. Williams hybridized varieties coming to England (Williamsii) to obtain more profuse bloomers
• Tea – sinensis is “the tea plant”
• Huge Blooms – Reticulata and hybrids are the largest blooms 6-10 inches across. The plants have large leaves but are somewhat straggly – not full
• Shapes
• Single 
• Semi-double  
• Rose Form Double 
• Formal Double
• Formal Double Swirl/Spiral
• Formal Double Star
• Anemone
• Peony

Fertilize

• Early June thru mid-July – no earlier than after blooms spent 
• No later than early August. u 13-13-13 Osmocote (1 tbsp. ) 
• Cotton seed meal 

DO NOT OVER-FERTILIZE!!!

• First Two Years 
• Be sure properly watered – deep watering 2-3 x’s a week. 
• Damp to dry – never wet  

Pruning

• Camellias are relatively slow growing but can become trees
• You may prune for:
• Shape
• Health
• Size
• Camellias can be pruned back as desired
• 1/3 to 1/2 of the plant can be removed successfully 

 HARVESTING PODS
“God did make little green apples – like pods on camellias”.

• In July/August you can harvest pods
• Leave them to open themselves – catch in a stocking mesh bag. Don’t allow to dry out.
• Open & harvest seeds
• Plant immediately in perlite/peat moss mix
• Mix or dampen a paper towel and store in a refrigerator (‘til you are ready to plant) in airtight baggy.
• Seeds will germinate in Fall or Spring, sometimes taking a whole year.
• Keep damp (don’t allow them to dry out). 
• Repot in potting mix after attaining an inch or two in size. Pinch off tip of tap root.
• Takes 4-12 years to bloom – do not bloom true
• Special blooms are /can be named new varieties
• Most are plain singles
• Repot in potting mix after attaining an inch or two in size. Pinch off the tip of tap root.
• Takes 4-12 years to bloom – do not bloom true
• Special blooms are /can be named new varieties
• Most are plain singles

Grafting

• This is a way to obtain non-commercially grown varieties
• Usually done in February (although it can be done anytime
• Root hormone is often used to help promote growth
• Scions must be lined up with cambium

Air Layering

• This is rooting in the air. Wrap branch (after scoring) with peat moss and seal. Will root in six months.

Cuttings 

• In South – Stick in late June to early August/keep misted. Usually, 3-4 months to root. Nurseries grow varieties that root well (95% or better) and are marketable in 2-3 years

Root Rot

Camellia root rot is caused by a fungus (phytophthora cinnamomi) which occurs in the soil. The pathogen may be found occurring naturally in the soil or it may be brought in on the roots of camellias, rhododendrons, and other woody ornamentals. Most Camellia japonica varieties are susceptible to root rot, while Camellia sasanqua and Camellia oleifera are not as vulnerable.

Root rot is usually associated with poorly aerated or poorly drained soils. Symptoms may appear at any time, but they often show up during periods of hot dry weather. The first sign of this disease is the stopping of growth either with or without yellowing leaves. In more advanced stages the leaves on one or more branches become gray-green, wilt, and finally die. If the roots are examined they are brown with rot.

Using fungicide as a soil treatment may help. When grafting, use C. sasanqua and C. oleifera as understock. Choose vigorous, fast-growing varieties of camellia plants. Most important, improve the drainage of the soil.

Dieback

Dieback is a serious disease of both C. japonica and C. sasanqua. It is caused by the fungus Glorerella cingulata. This fungus enters plants through wounds resulting from leaf scars, hail injury, pruning cuts, falling branches, insect damage, and lawn mower or string trimmer cuts. Insects that walk across wounds can spread the fungus. It can also be disseminated through moisture splashed on the wounds from rain or regular watering. The disease usually appears during the spring and early summer months.

Dieback is characterized by a sudden wilting of new growth, particularly in early summer. The leaves cling to the branches for a long time after they die. Cankers sometimes appear at the infection point and may ooze pink masses of fungi spores during extended periods of wet weather.

The best control of dieback is sanitation. The fungus lives inside the plant and spray cannot completely control it. Remove the affected branch about six inches below the lowest visible symptom of the disease. After each cut dip pruning tools in a commercial fungicide or a solution of one part chlorine bleach to 10 parts water. Spray the resulting wounds with the disinfecting solution. Diseased twigs should be physically removed from the area of the plant, and either burned or discarded in the garbage. Spraying plants with a fungicide solution in the spring during the normal leaf-fall period will help to prevent the spread of the fungus.

Camellia Flower Blight

This camellia disease is caused by the fungus Ciborinia camelliae. It occurs only on the flower and does not affect the rest of the plant in any way. Since camellias are enjoyed mainly for their blooms, this disease can be really disheartening.

Flower blight is not usually a problem early in the season. It generally appears in late winter to early spring when temperatures are on the rise. It may be seen earlier if conditions are proper for the fungus. Warm, humid weather following a cold spell will cause sporulation of the fungus and subsequent infection. This disease is characterized by brown spots on the petals. These usually enlarge until the entire blossom is blighted. Infected flower tissue feels “slimy” to the touch.

Infected flowers fall to the ground and the fungus produces hard, resting bodies called sclerotia. These sclerotia may remain under the bush or in the soil or debris for several years. Under proper weather conditions (temperatures from 45 – 70 F degrees and wet) these sclerotia germinate and develop saucer-shaped mushrooms (apothecia) about one-half inch in diameter that release spores. These spores are carried by the wind and cause infection when they land on a flower.

Remove and destroy all fallen blooms. Picking up all fallen blossoms every year would disrupt the life cycle of the fungus. This would only be effective, however, if all other camellia growers in the area did the same, as fungal spores can easily blow to another plant. If flower blight has not been found in an area, it is important not to bring flowers or infected soil on plants into this area. Protective fungicidal sprays provide only limited protection. No proven eradication method has been found, although testing continues. Some fungicidal sprays, such as Bayleton, applied weekly will reduce disease incidence but not eliminate it.

Other Diseases

Other camellia diseases include leaf gall, sooty mold, lichens, nematodes, and virus variegation. None of these is usually life-threatening.

Drought and  Excessive Watering

Both are as bad as the other. Drought can cause leaves and buds to fall. This will be mitigated by mulching the base of camellias, whether in the ground or in containers. You must monitor the watering, the soil should always be moist but not too much. In summer, on warm evenings, give the camellia a shower. They love humid climates, Just wait until they are no longer exposed to the sun, so as not to burn.

Conversely, excessive watering can kill a camellia. Camellias in containers are particularly vulnerable. We always try to do well and, after purchase, we tend to repot them in a too large container. Do not choose a container with a diameter more than 2cm larger than the former. If the container is too large, the water will stagnate, and will form a kind of gruel and will rot the roots. It can do so very quickly. If the leaves get yellow and fall, check the drainage of the container and its size. A bit smaller container and limited irrigation may be sufficient to stop the process. Another consequence is a slowdown in bud growth and poor flowering. Similarly, a soil that does not drain adequately can generate the same problem. In this case, you just have to find another place or grow it in a container.

Camellia Pest Problems 

• Camellias are tough, evergreen shrubs. If planted and cared for properly, they rarely develop serious disease problems, but they can be bothered by a few pests.
• Problematic insects on camellias are tea scale, aphids, and spider mites. All three use piercing-sucking mouthparts to feed on the undersides of leaves.
• Aphids cause leaves to curl and become distorted and also cause sooty mold infestations.
• Tea scale appears as a fuzzy whitish coating on the bottom of leaves and triggers yellow speckling on top.

Spider mites 

• Typically worse during hot, dry, conditions and cause leaves to look rusty or whitish along leaf veins.
• To get rid of aphids or mites, try blasting your camellia with a garden hose a few times. Tea scale will require an approved horticultural oil spray. (Mites may also require spraying).

Beetles 

• Sickle shaped holes in leaves indicate beetles in the mulch or other material around plant. Spray or spread Sevin to control them.

ROOTS

Question: My plant looks as though it is dying. I dug down to look at the roots, and found that many of them were soft and brown inside. What has happened?

• Root decay in camellias can be the result of an attack by a root disease, and the main culprits are honey fungus and Phytophthora root rot for plants grown in the ground. Root decay can also be caused by waterlogging, and both soil and container-grown plants can be affected. Phytophthora is promoted by waterlogging, and this is especially common in container-grown plants where the potting media loses structure over time. Timely repotting avoids this. But avoid overpotting which can also lead to rotting roots.

STEMS & BRANCHES

Question: The branches of my camellia are dying back. What could be wrong?

• Branch dieback can be another symptom of the root problems described above, as the plant struggles to take up water through its poorly-functioning root system.
• The leaf blight fungi can also sometimes progress to cause branch dieback.

LEAVES

Question: The leaves of my plant have gone yellow. What has caused this?

• This symptom can have may different causes. Root problems can again be responsible, but if the yellowing is confined to the areas between the veins, then the problem is most likely to be a nutrient deficiency.
• Irregular yellow or creamy-white blotches on the leaves may be the result of infection by Camellia yellow mottle virus. This virus has little effect on plant vigor.
• Although they are evergreen plants, camellias still periodically shed their old leaves. Don’t worry about leaves turning yellow and falling in spring and summer if this is confined to old leaves near the base and within the plant.

Question: Many of the leaves of my camellia have a thick, black growth on the surface. What has caused this?

The black growth is that of a sooty mold fungus. This grows on the sugary honeydew excreted by sap-sucking pests. Sooty mold is not directly harmful to the plant and can be washed from the leaves, but unless the pest is controlled the growth will reappear.

Question: My plant looks healthy apart from one or two leaves, which become very swollen and have not turned white. Is this a significant problem?

Your plant is affected by a fungal disease called camellia gall. Whilst unsightly, this is not a serious problem. Affected parts can be picked off, ideally before the white bloom of fungal spores is produced.

Question: Some of the leaves of my plant have turned brown. What is the problem?

• Again, there can be a number of causes for this, such as a root problem, drought, frost damage or strong winds. Affected leaves may be shed.
• If the browning takes the form of spots or blotches, then it is possible that the plant has become infected with one of the leaf blight fungi. 

Question: The leaves of my camellia have raised corky spots and patches underneath. What has caused this?

It sounds as though the leaves could be affected by oedema. This is not a pest or disease but a physiological problem, caused when the plant takes up more water through its roots then it can lose readily through the leaves. Overwatering or waterlogging can be the blame, or occasionally camellias grown in poly-tunnels or under glass where humidity is high can exhibit problems of oedema.

FLOWERS

Question: My camellia rarely flowers. Often the flower buds develop but then go brown and fall off in the spring before they open. Or sometimes flower buds fail to form at all. Why does this happen?

The buds on spring-flowering camellias, like most plants that flower at this time, start to develop in late summer of the previous year. Adverse conditions, particularly dry soil, occurring in late summer or early spring can cause the buds to abort. Ensure that your plant has an adequate supply of water during this critical time. Excessive or late feeding can also lead to bud drop – do not feed camellias later than the end of July.

Question: The flowers on my plant opened, but most of them have rapidly gone brown. Is this frost damage?

• Frost is certainly the most common cause for this symptom. The susceptibility of a plant to damage will depend on the species and cultivar, and also its position – plant receiving direct early morning sun following a frost are much more likely to be affected
• Flowers can also turn brown and fall prematurely when they are affected by a fungal disease. Possible causes are grey mold and camellia flower blight.

CAMELLIA HEAVEN

• A camellia preserve of 8,000 – 10,000 plants, nearly 6,000 in ground and about 4,000 - 5,000 in pots/propagated for planting, 500 plus planted each year.
• One of the largest collections of different varieties in the country 
• Over 60 species. Hosts the most varieties created by Louisiana growers
• Over a million blooms during the blooming season from October – May (blooms as early as late July to first week of May) 
• 10-12 varieties of yellow camellias, etc.